Rewiring the pedal switches for a T5 to Automatic Tranny (non-EEC) swap

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ABOUT and DISCLAIMER

This page deals with the changes in wiring needed to switch from the stock T5 manual, 5 speed transmission to an automatic transmission that is not controlled by the EEC.  In this case, I am installing a Ford C5 (similar to a C4).  The neutral safety switch for the C5 is located on the transmission itself.  Some other applications may have the switch on the shifter.  Adjust according to your specifics needs.  NOTE:  The author accepts no responsibility for any incorrect information found on this site or any damage incurred by following the details here.  I have recorded my actions as a reference.  This text may not include all necessary instructions or safety precautions.  Consult a repair manual, perform your own tests, ask advice from a professional, and always verify that your application works the same way.  Proceed at your own risk.


GETTING STARTED

I removed the clutch pedal, pedal rod, clutch quadrant, clutch cable, and all related items.  This saved easily 5-10 pounds.  I will not go into the details of removing the pedal in this page. There are three main switches to deal with (probably only 2 if your vehicle did not have cruise control).  One on the brake pedal, one near the clutch pedal, and one near the gas pedal on the clutch quadrant.  Be sure to disconnect the battery before attempting to make electrical connections.


TOOLS NEEDED (not all inclusive)

14 or 16 AWG wire, spade and butt connectors, wire crimper, wire cutters, electrical tape, Volt/ohm Meter, flat blade screwdriver, various wrenches/sockets.

CRUISE CONTROL



The gray bodied switch (F4ZB-9F645-AA) with a short black plunger is mounted near the gas pedal.  Switch can be seen in Figure 1.

There are two wires on the connector:  RED/LT GREEN stripe and LIGHT GREEN.  With KEY ON, the Green wire becomes 'hot' with 12V.  I believe this switch kills the cruise control when the clutch pedal is pressed See also Table 1.

Table 1 - Cruise Kill Switch Electrical Functions

Clutch Pedal Up Black Button Down Circuit Closed
Clutch Pedal Down Black Button Up Circuit Open

Figure 1 - 20021228_blackplunger.jpg

20021228_blackplunger.jpg

 

To bypass this switch, unplug the connector and remove the two small nuts holding the switch bracket on.  

Loop a short piece of wire and crimp blue male spade connectors to the ends.  Insert the spade connectors into the plug on the vehicle harness as shown in Figure 2.  

This keeps the circuit always closed, which mimics the 'clutch pedal up' position.  Cruise control can still be ended by pressing the brake pedal.

 

Figure 2 - 20021228jumperredgreenandgreen.jpg

 

BRAKE SWITCH



As seen in Figure 3, there is a switch located on the top of the brake pedal.  It has a metal contact that activates the brake lights on the vehicle, as well as a white stopper that affects engine vacuum to the cruise control unit.

Figure 3 - cruisekillbrakeswitch.jpg

 


CLUTCH START SWITCH




The switch (F4ZB-11A152-AA) has the white slider and has 2 two-wire plugs in it as shown in Figure 4.  It is attached by a single screw in the round gray part to the side.  One connector has WHITE/RED stripe and RED/LT BLUE stripe.  The other is RED/WHITE (or light gray) stripe and LT BLUE/YELLOW stripe.

The 2 circuits appear to be completely separate, but use the same switch to activate them.  With the clutch pedal down (to start the car), the round end of the slider pulls out of the switch.  This closes the circuit on the red and white pair.  On my tranny, putting the car in Park or Neutral also closes the circuit.  This pair is what is used for the "clutch start."   The red and light blue pair has an open circuit with the clutch pushed in.  

Figure 4 - 20021228_whiteslider.jpg

 

WHITE/RED stripe and RED/LT BLUE stripe pair

To do the wiring, I first cut the wires about 4" from the plug.  I chose to use a male connector on one wire and a female connector on the other wire.  In case something happened to the neutral start switch on the tranny, I could disconnect the wires and simply plug them in.  While I would be able to start the vehicle in any gear (which is unsafe) it would, however, allow me to get where I was going and then be able to repair the switch.  

This also provides a troubleshooting area in case the car will not start.  I can rule out the neutral switch as a problem area.  I also placed the corresponding connectors on the plug that I cut off as shown in Figure 4.  

If I ever went back to a 5 speed, I could easily just plug the wires back together to make the neutral switch work again.  Figure 5 shows the wires hook to my yellow and green wires that go to the tranny.

Figure 5 - 20021228nuetralstartwhiteandredwhite.jpg

 



RED/WHITE stripe and LT BLUE/YELLOW stripe

Since the Red/White stripe and Lt Blue/Yellow stripe is an open circuit with the clutch pushed in, I left it open by simply disconnecting it and letting it hang untouched as shown in Figure 6.  

I believe this circuit tells the EEC that the clutch pedal is pushed in, but I am not sure why. If anyone knows what it does, please email me! :)


Figure 6 - 20021228leaveunpluggedredwhiteandblueyellow.jpg


FINISHED

Figures 7 and 8 show the wiring finished and tucked away.  I have not had any problems starting the car since performing these procedures and feel pretty confident that they are correct.  If you know otherwise, please let me know!  Good luck.

Figure 7 - 20021228allconnections.jpg

Figure 8 - 20021228spaghettiwiring.jpg